My client calls me in my hotel room at nine this morning and says, "there's nothing for you to do today. You have the day off." I thank him, and assure him I'll have my cellphone with me if he needs anything, and smile to myself. Just because he has nowhere for me to fly today doesn't mean I have nothing to do. My day's to do list already includes:
- order nasal cannulas
- buy charts
- find out the contact person for permission to access restricted airspace
- find shop that can do 100 h mx check
- buy garbage bags
- send weekly paperwork to boss
- buy antiseptic wipes for the icky masks, pending the arrival of the cannulas (cannulae?)
But I'll let the client maintain the illusion that I'll do nothing all day.
It's quarter to twelve when I'm done the paperwork and finished all I can do in the way of
maintenance and airspace related phone calls and e-mails. I log on to the Utah public transit website to find out when the next bus
downtown is. They have the usual little app that allows me to tell it where I am, where I want to go
and when, so I punch in that data, telling it I want to leave at noon. I figure I can walk to the
bus stop by then.
The application comes back and tells me to board a bus at 11:46. That's now. I click on the route
schedule to find out when the next one is. Over four hours from now. Hmm. Time for Plan B. It turns
out that the business/church association runs a free shuttle from the airport to downtown, intended
to lure travellers with long stopovers into the temple and/or local stores. And my hotel has a free
shuttle to the airport. I combine these to good effect and am soon downtown, at Temple Square.
My last night's hosts had warned me that the free tour of the square was weak on history and long
on religion, but I could stand to learn more about the local religion, so I attended. The tour
guides were young women, missionaries who had signed up for an eighteen month mission anywhere in
the world, and they found themselves in Utah. The tour had a little of the aspect of watching news
videos posted online, where you have to listen to the commercials in order to get to the content. So
we would get a little spiel on the first Mormon commandment of faith, as 'background' and then some
historical information. The guides took us to a room that looked out on the Temple Square buildings,
and which was surrounded by busts of Mormon prophets. The first was Joseph Smith, the founder of the
religion, then Brigham Young who led the faithful to Utah, and at least a dozen, maybe two dozen,
more all around the outside of the room. They had somehow managed a continuous succession of
prophets. I wondered how they went about finding the next prophet, after one died. Was the next
identified as a child, like the Dalai Lama? Elected by the elite, like the Pope? Elected generally
like the President? I asked, and they explained that each new prophet is chosen by and from the
ranks of the apostles of the previous one, through prayer and consensus.
Next I toured the house of Brigham Young, where my guides were from Brazil and Italy. We saw the
furnishings and restored interior of the house he had built and in which he lived and entertained
visiting dignitaries. I had noticed by this point that all the missionaries carried around a copy of
The Book of Mormon, much the way Phil has to be within reach of is flight attendant manual. (Thanks to Phil, I was momentarily distracted from the presentation by the idea of a doubly burdened Mormon flight attendant. Yes, Phil and I are trying to arrange to meet up, but when two people are in aviation, meeting is complicated.) Eventually I asked one of the guides if I could see her Book. She said of course, and I sat down to look at it. It
read, and I hope I can say this without offending anyone, much like a book of the Bible it
supplements. Records and prophesies and stories and lo and beholds. I didn't read enough to see
anything reportable, I was just looking to see what it was that Joseph Smith had written. I was
wondering to myself at how prolific this man had been, when the missionary mentioned that the book was written in 600 AD. That didn't line up with
what I thought I knew. She said that the book, actually engraved plates, dated to the year 600, and
had been passed from prophet to prophet until it reached the last one, Moroni, who had no one to
give it to, because the people of Jerusalem had become wicked. So he hid it in the ground. This really didn't match what I knew of this being a very recent religion, and one founded in the US.
I asked something like, "But ... six hundred .. Joseph Smith?" The Italian Sister's English was not perfect. She perhaps said the wrong word or number somewhere.
But no, she went on and explained that the last prophet Moroni appeared to Joseph Smith as a resurrected being and revealed to him where the gold plates bearing these scriptures were hidden. He unearthed them and translated them.
"And where were they?" I asked.
The answer was an exotic name that I didn't recognize, so I asked where that was.
"New York? United States New York?"
Yes. That New York. Okay, the language barrier had caused some problem here. "How did they get to
Eventually, after a bit of back and forth, it dawned on me. "This was a trip from Jerusalem to
New York that ... most people don't know about. It isn't recorded in ... regular history?"
And she confirmed it. Wow, this religion is starting to sound like an Indiana Jones movie.
"What language were they written in?" I asked.
The answer was in the Egyptian language, but with the Hebrew writing system. The Sister
anticipated my next question and warned that this part might be hard to understand, but Joseph Smith
was not a very educated man, he translated the plates using the power of God. Given the biblical
story of the tower of Babel, and even some non-religious stories of people understanding foreign
speech in extremis, that didn't really stand out as the astonishing part of the story. I'd just been
told that there was a historical artifact, a written record of biblical times that had been found on
North American soil. And I'd never even heard of it! Was this religion so persecuted that something
like that could be covered up?
"Where are the plates now?" I asked.
She explained that there are replicas of some of them in the museum, but at that time the people
were wicked and they could see that Joseph had these things that looked like gold, and they wanted
them, so the angels took them back for safekeeping.
And the act of translation was the hard to grasp part? And then I had a little revelation
of my own. All religions are based on faith, faith in something that appears fantastical to someone
who does not have that faith. And once you believe in something that others don't, it doesn't really
matter how convoluted it is, it's your faith. And perhaps the strength of the faith that is required
to support the beliefs is a strength that carries one through adversity, such as the mountains of
Utah, the Nazi concentration camps, or simply the horrors of grade nine in high school. It's likely
that every single person in the world believes something that I don't. I am absolutely not going to
judge or condemn them for that. I'm sure I believe some things that other people find highly
unlikely. It would appear that regardless of their beliefs that these people work hard for themselves and to deliver humanitarian relief as well as evangelism to people who need it.
I did not tell the nice woman that her faith was an Indiana Jones movie, already written and
ready to be scored by John Williams. I do keep an eye out for evidence that Joseph Young wore a
fedora or carried a bullwhip.
I continued walking around Temple Square, looking at fountains and sculptures and monuments.
Here's a detail from one commemorating "Brigham Young and the Pioneers," the first group of people
to make that trek through the mountains to find this place. The plaque lists all their names, with
stars next to those still alive at the time of the engraving. As you can see from the picture, this
was summarized as 143 men, 3 women and 2 children, along with assorted animals. The male-female
ratio struck me as an odd foundation for a polygamous society that rejects homosexuality, but
apparently that group was merely the vanguard, the next year hundreds more people joined them. I
counted the names to see if the "colored servants" listed separately at the end counted as men, and
they did. Depictions on the monument also acknowledge the Ute Indians and the hunters and trappers
who had made it to the valley before the pilgrims.
I had lunch at a restaurant called The Lion House, a historic home also on Temple Square. It was
cafeteria style, quite good food and they offered Jell-O among the desserts. I was sorry to observe
that there was no green, only red and orange, so I still haven't had the Utah state food. I had
black forest cake instead.
I walked from Temple Square up the hill to the State Capitol. I learned about something called book cut marble, the way patterns like the one in the picture above are produced. The marble is cut four times as thick as it needs to be, then sliced in half like a layer cake, and then those leaves are again sliced, allowing the grain of the marble to form a fourfold symmetrical pattern. I spotted this mural of Brigham Young arriving in the valley. It appears that he did have a fedora. Perhaps his bullwhip is in the covered wagon.